Updates

Dispatches from the ground. Stories, progress, and the voices of Lalibela.

Looking up at the carved exterior walls of a Lalibela rock-hewn church
History

Who Built the Rock-Hewn Churches of Lalibela?

April 2026

The complete history: King Gebre Meskel Lalibela, the Zagwe dynasty, how eleven churches were carved from solid rock, and eight centuries of preservation.

Sunset over the Ethiopian highlands near Lalibela
Travel Guide

The Northern Ethiopia Route

April 2026

Plan the Historical Northern Circuit: Lalibela's churches, Gondar's castles, Simien Mountains trekking, and Axum's ancient obelisks. Complete itinerary and budget.

Handmade Ethiopian crosses held in an artisan's hand
Culture

The Living Crosses

November 2025

In the hands of Lalibela's artisans, Ethiopian crosses are not souvenirs. They are prayers cast in metal — each one unique, each one carrying centuries of faith.

Giving school supplies to children at the market in Lalibela
Stories

The Kids of Lalibela

November 2025

They don't ask for money. They ask for notebooks and dictionaries. How 150 school supplies and an impromptu football game revealed the heart of a community.

Antonin outside a rock-hewn church in Lalibela
Reflections

I Didn't Come to Save Anyone

November 2025

Antonin's personal essay on visiting Lalibela, sleeping in the church, and why the white savior narrative misses everything that matters.

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