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Reflections

I Didn't Come to Save Anyone

Antonin's personal essay on visiting Lalibela, sleeping in the church, and why the white savior narrative misses everything that matters.

Worshippers resting and praying during a night vigil in Lalibela
A night vigil in Lalibela. This story is a personal reflection, not a general account of the community.

I didn't plan to go to Lalibela. I followed the flow and arrived during Meskel, one of the most important celebrations of the year.

People talk about the white savior narrative in Africa. I understand the concern and share it. I did not come to Lalibela believing I could save anyone. I wanted to spend time with people and be open to what happened.

"I slept in the church, prayed with them, shared food, laughed."

On my first day at the church, I prayed to God and Jesus for guidance and for the courage to keep opening my heart.

For years I have tried to follow Jesus' wisdom as a model of love, outside a formal religious structure. In Lalibela, that intention became very concrete.

Antonin beside a saint carving in a Lalibela church
Antonin inside the church complex during his visit.

During the Meskel celebrations, I joined the all-night vigil. Thousands of worshippers wrapped in white, praying through the darkness. Children sleeping against their parents. Elders leaning on prayer sticks. I was among them, not watching, not photographing, just being.

"It wasn't about me giving and them receiving. It was an exchange. They gave me so much care, friendship, respect. I wasn't a savior. I was just another human being, humbled to be welcomed into their life for a moment."
A shared selfie with local children beside a church wall in Lalibela
A personal encounter from the visit, shown here only within Antonin’s own account.

I felt a strong sense of community around the celebrations. People prayed, ate, waited, and stayed together for hours. It made me think about how isolated life can feel in richer countries, and how little money can do to replace connection.

I spent time beyond the usual church visit and helped with some school supplies. What I received in friendship and care felt much larger than what I gave. None of it was planned.

"As a tourist I often feel guilty to come to these places and stay in my bubble, spending so much money for flights and hotels with very little going back to the people that need it the most."

It is not always easy to move beyond the tourist path. People in Lalibela made room for me, and I hope sharing the experience encourages others to visit with the same openness.

I leave tomorrow. I am sad to go and grateful that an unplanned visit brought me here during the celebrations.

I wanted the guide to turn that connection into something useful. The support page explains how to keep value local and check that any giving is accountable.

Read the support guide

Planning a trip? Read our practical guide →